TRAVEL/FOOD

Once called Coatlan after the earthenware vessels that were coiled like a serpent and used for storing pulque, a white wine made from the Mexcal tree and used as an offering to a stone idol, Cuiseon was a small village on The Nine Rivers which flowed into Lake Chapala. This and other food traditions, according to The Geographic Account of Poncitlán and Cuiseo del Río dated March 9, 1586, showed their typical fare as venison, fish, and rabbit, a thin kind of porridge to drink hot with powdered chile that was broken up and sprinkled on top, and Izquitl—corn toasted on a comal and seasoned with salt. The villagers harvested chia, huauhtli, and cocotl, the latter a mustard-like seed that is ground up and mixed with corn and water to drink both before and after eating.

As it relates to the foods we eat today, we still consume corn and fish and season with salt and powdered chiles. We’re less likely to dine on venison or rabbit while cocotl is so obscure that even a Google search doesn’t come up with a hit. But both chia and huauhtli, a species of amaranth, an ancient grain, are recognized as beneficial to our health. And so, the foods of this village still play a part in our lives.

This is an obscure slice of everyday life, a glimpse into the past that would be lost to time, confined to dusty archives, and/or shelved away to be forgotten in libraries or museums, if not for the work of Tony Burton, an award-winning writer whose books include “Lake Chapala: A Postcard History” (2022), “Foreign Footprints in Ajijic: Decades of Change in Mexican Village” (2022), “If Walls Could Talk: Chapala’s historic buildings and their former occupants” (2020), “Mexican Kaleidoscope: myths, mysteries and mystique” (2016), and  “Western Mexico, A Traveler’s Treasury” (4th edition, 2013).

Reading through a unique collection of extracts from more than fifty original sources, many never previously available in English, Burton’s book, “Lake Chapala Through the Ages; an anthology of travelers’ tales,” is a fascinating look at the region’s formative years from the arrival of conquistadors in the early 1500s to the start of the Mexican Revolution in 1910, as told through the eyes of an assortment of travelers– poets, friars, exiles, government officials, geographers, historians, explorers, and scientists.

What they saw in their journeys is fascinating, as are the people who traveled and then shared their observations.

“My inspiration was really curiosity about the documentary basis for things I’d heard about the history of the area, some of which struck me as highly imaginative,” says Burton. “I began working on the book way before the development of online search engines or digitized books, so it took me almost a decade to track down originals of the 50+ published works, excerpts from which appear in the final book. It would have been impossible without the support of an excellent inter-library loan system, personal visits to libraries in the USA and England, and the generous contributions of a small army of people I thank in the book’s acknowledgments.

“I still remember the shivers that ran down my spine when I first handled the leather-bound Belgian journal from the 1830s containing an article about Lake Chapala by Henri Galeotti. I knew that article existed because some parts had been translated into Spanish and published in Mexico. The challenge of finding the original proved to be well worth the effort—in my opinion, Galeotti’s masterful, illustrated, systematic, scientific coverage of the area’s geology and natural history has no equal.”

Barrister and seasoned traveler William Henry Bullock Hall (1837–1904), who was born in Essex, England, and educated at Balliol College, Oxford visited Mexico taking a route that began in Veracruz and took in Mexico City, Tepic, San Blas, Guadalajara, Querétaro and Tampico.

Looking for boiling water while staying at the hacienda of Buena Vista, he made the following observation:

“In one of the recesses of the building, I discovered, over her earthenware pots, the old woman, upon whom you are sure to stumble, sooner or later, in Mexican houses, if you only persevere. As good luck would have it, this old crone was in the act of trying to blow into a sufficient glow to boil a jug of water, the bits of charcoal which, laid in a square receptacle sunk in the face of a solid brick counter, do the duty of a fire all over Mexico. From this old lady I obtained not only boiling water, but a couple of poached eggs, so that I fared sumptuously.”

English women often were intrepid travelers, journeying to places remote and probably most uncomfortable. How joyous to meet Rose Georgina Kingsley (1845–1925), the oldest child of the Rev. Charles Kingsley, a celebrated English clergyman and novelist, who contributed the prologue to her book” South by west or winter in the Rocky Mountains and spring in Mexico,” published in 1874 and digitized by Harvard University in 2006.

Rose crossed the Atlantic to Colorado Springs in November 1871 to join her brother, Maurice, who was assistant treasurer of the company developing Colorado Springs writes Burton, noting that, even by 1872, there were fewer than 800 residents, so both Kingsleys were pioneer settlers.

Her writings and sketches were published by General William Jackson Palmer, the founder of Colorado Springs, a railway entrepreneur and owner of the newspaper Out West. When Palmer decided that same year to examine possible routes for a railway linking Texas to Manzanillo, Rose accepted the invitation to join him along with his wife, Queen, and General William Rosencrans on a trip that took them first to Manzanillo and then inland to Colima, Guadalajara, Guanajuato, Querétaro, and Mexico City. Her descriptions of the sights and interactions along the way are fascinating.

“At San Pedro [Tlaquepaque] we stopped and got three men as escort, and at 9.30 came to San Antonio, a hacienda where we changed mules, and had breakfast in a hut by the roadside,” she writes. “The women in the hut, which was only made of sticks and thatch, gave us eggs, frijoles, tortillas, and carne seca, in chilli Colorado sauce, which for hotness almost beat the mole de guajalote at Atenquique. But besides these native viands we got capital chocolate, made from some cakes we had brought with us. So, on the whole, we fared well.”

They arrived at La Barca, on the Rio Lerma, on market day and ate a very good meal in a dirty fonda (restaurant) where the walls were covered with broken bits of pottery in decorative patterns. There they learned they had barely missed being robbed the night before—all of which Rose, in her writings at least, takes in stride.

Burton, the editor-in-chief of MexConnect, Mexico’s top English-language online magazine, spans time and place to take us into one of his favorite regions of Mexico where he lived for over a decade, bringing the past alive and introducing us to an interesting cast of characters.

The following recipes are from Gastro Nomia Tipica del Estado de Jalisco.

SOPA DE TORTILLA

(TORTILLA SOUP)

Ingredients:

• 18 Tortillas (from the previous day) cut into strips and aired so they dry out some.
• 4 large ripe tomatoes, roasted and peeled.
• 1 small can of tomato puree.
• 1 clove garlic.
• 1/2 onion.
• Salt and pepper to taste.
• 1 pasilla/mulato chile and 1 ancho chile, fried without seeds and in small pieces
• 1 very fresh small panela.
• 2 avocados peeled and cut into strips.
• 1/4 Chihuahua cheese (or whatever you prefer that is stringy) grated.
• 1 branch of epazote (or parsley if you don’t have epazote).
• Good quality milk cream.
• 1 liter hicken broth (or a liter of water with powdered broth).
• Cooked and shredded chicken (optional).

Fry the tortillas in hot oil and drain the excess oil.

Blend the tomatoes with the garlic and onion. Put a little oil in a casserole or pot and fry the tomato puree; add the liquid and the broth or consommé, season with salt and pepper. Put enough tortilla strips in each deep plate, add the grated cheese and then plenty of very hot broth.

Garnish with strips of avocado and panela and pieces of fried chilies. Everyone adds their own cream. The chicken, if included, is added before adding the broth.

Makes six servings.

Photo courtesy Wikiwrimo.

BOTANA DE REQUESON

CURD CHEESE SNACK

• 1 kg. fresh cottage cheese
• 1/4 green tomato, clean and washed
• 3 poblano chiles
• 1 tablespoon of chipotle chile pickle
• 1 canned jalapeno pepper
• 1 splash of jalapeno pepper vinegar
• Pepper and salt to taste
• Powdered consommé
• Whole tostadas

Blend all the ingredients except the cottage cheese.

Fry in a splash of oil, letting it boil and stirring until it loses all the liquid and a paste is left. Let it cool, mix with the cottage cheese, crushing it with bean masher to mix well.

Mold it into a glass container previously greased with oil, pressing the mixture well.

Remove from mold onto a flat plate and cover completely with toasted sesame seeds. Serve with tostadas around it.

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